Watch retailer Collective Horology sues U.S. over tariffs

California watch retailer Collective Horology has sued President Donald Trump and his administration over the latest U.S. tariffs, calling the new levies unlawful. The suit, filed after rates of 10 and 12.5 percent took effect, says the president lacks sole power to impose them and joins a wider industry backlash.

Key Takeaways

• Collective Horology sued Trump and his administration over tariffs enshrined on July 24, 2026.
• The California club and retailer calls 10% and 12.5% Section 301 levies “unlawful.”
• Cofounder Asher Rapkin says Swiss watch imports cost at least 12.5% more than before April 2025.
• The firm says it would owe about $8,280 on roughly $69,000 in upcoming imports and previously paid over $160,000 in tariff fees.
• It filed with spice brand Burlap and Barrel at the U.S. Court of International Trade, represented by Liberty Justice Center.

What did Collective Horology allege in its lawsuit?

According to Robb Report, the California watch-collectors club and independent retailer acted mere hours after the newest U.S. tariffs took effect. Those levies were enshrined on July 24 and set at 10 percent and 12.5 percent on goods entering the United States.

In the complaint, Collective Horology argues the measures are “unlawful” and that the president does not have sole authority to impose them. Robb Report notes the administration filed the latest tariffs under Section 301 of the Trade Act of 1974, which allows levies in response to unfair trade practices by other nations, including Switzerland.

Why does the case matter for watch buyers and dealers?

Asher Rapkin, cofounder of Collective Horology, told Robb Report the tariffs spare no one in the watch trade, from major holding companies to small independent workshops. He said importing a Swiss watch now costs at least 12.5 percent more than before April 2025, a hit compounded by a stronger Swiss franc.

That pressure, Rapkin said, makes it harder for authorized dealers to stock inventory, for independent makers to meet demand, and for collectors to invest with confidence when future rates remain uncertain. Readers who track high-end collecting alongside luxury real estate and dream homes will recognize how sudden cost spikes can reshape premium markets.

The lawsuit claims Collective Horology would owe about $8,280 in tariffs on upcoming imports valued around $69,000. The California retailer previously paid more than $160,000 in tariff fees under earlier U.S. levies, according to the suit as reported by Robb Report.

Who else joined the filing, and what happens next?

Collective Horology was joined by New York spice brand Burlap and Barrel in a filing at the U.S. Court of International Trade. Liberty Justice Center represents the pair. That group also helped challenge Trump’s first round of tariffs before the Supreme Court, which ruled those earlier levies illegal, Robb Report reported.

Rapkin said that since April 2025 the company has absorbed IEEPA tariffs, then Section 122 tariffs, and now Section 301 duties, while still awaiting six-figure IEEPA refunds. He argued the cash-flow strain forced unwanted price increases across dealers, collectors, and watchmakers. The case is set to proceed over the coming months.

Tariffs have weighed on the watch world for some time. Trump first imposed a 39 percent levy on Swiss exports in August 2025, later reduced to 15 percent last November, while Swiss watch exports to the U.S. fell repeatedly after the initial announcement.